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To find out more about the voyage itinerary and ports, go to: http://www.semesteratsea.org/voyages/summer-2014/

Wednesday, July 16, 2014



Scotland-
Day 1- Highland Games-Luss, Scotland-on the western shore of Loch Lomand
We had expected this to be a completely touristy experience and were okay with that but it turned out to be a quaint cultural experience. This was the real deal! First we looked around the village of Luss which was filled with cottages with flowers and gardens that were the absolute stereotype of the small village in Scotland.  Then appeared the Chief of the Clan Colquhoun. The tradition dictates that the chief leads the people into the games so the parade proceeds with the chief and his family, then  comes a band of bagpipers and drummers, then all the people going to the games, so we all joined in the parade and followed the clan chief into the games. It was filled with Scottish families with many men in kilts picking up large rocks, throwing telephone poles, tossing sheaves of branches over poles (high jump style). It is was easy to imagine when (for generations) the clans got together to showcase their strength, doing it through the everyday tasks they had to do (removing rocks from the field, throwing bales of hay into the barn, etc) and proving who was the strongest and best among the clans. There were races of all sorts where both locals and guests could join in, which was great fun. The food was amazing. We had our first haggis of the trip (having had it when we were in Scotland 13 years ago) and it was just perfection. Rick had haggis with neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes) and I had a haggis burger which was haggis on a lovely bun with a piece of cheese and whiskey chutney. It was just delicious and Rick's was lovely as well. I followed that with some ice cream and Rick had a locally brewed Loch Lomand stout.  All in all it was a delightful experience even though Rick did not don a kilt and take part in the throwing of telephone poles!!
Quaint stone cottages with beautiful roses

On  the shores of Loch Lomand (you take the high road...)

The Chief of the Clan leading us to the games

Followed by bag pipers and drummers

Throwing sheafs over the pole

Hanging out having a pint!

Musician a la Braveheart

For my "Outlander" friends

Our first haggis of the trip-yummmmm!

Day 2- Edinburgh-a revisit
Even though we had been to Edinburgh 13 years ago we took the opportunity to go again and see it with more experienced eyes and with new people to share their experience. We were not disappointed. We were taken aback with the sheer number of people there that seemed exponentially more than when we were there before. There were just throngs of people to wade through. Nevertheless we felt like we were visiting an old friend and we were happy to see things again. We enjoyed the views from the castle as well as envisioning the history as we thought about it through the lens of Braveheart (even though that was not completely historically accurate Tina still clung to some of the illusions). We had a guide who was determined to shatter these illusions by referring to the historic Edinburgh that had roads not with quaint cobblestone streets but streets of mud and “mire” (human and animal excrement), rats, disease and general unpleasantness.  With the knowledge that this was the accurate historical perspective, it was much more fun to cling to the romanticized image of the historic fiction with the siege of the castle, manly men in kilts sweeping beautiful lassies off their feet and crushing the English at Bannockburn. So there!! We ate lunch at our favorite restaurant (more haggis-delicious), Deacon Brodie’s Tavern.  Deacon Brodie was the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Doctor Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. The story says that Deacon Brodie was a city council member by day and a thief and general scoundrel by night.  It appears that he actually designed the gallows on which he was hung-you gotta hate that!!!
Edinburgh Castle on the hill

Entrance to castle-Wm Wallace and Robert the Bruce

More castle

Deacon Brodie's tavern-interesting story

Haggis #2!!! Such a lovely color (with neeps and tatties!!)

At the tavern-retake of a pic from 2001!!!

For Richard and Corey-an old friend!

St. Giles Cathedral-one of our favorite places-Thistle Chapel

Somehow we always find a pastry shop in the rain!!

Hollyrood Palace-Queen E's Scotland residence

Day 3- Robert Burns-the national bard of Scotland
We decided to take a trip to the birthplace of Robert Burns as he is so important to the Scottish people but it was also because the trip would take us to the southeast area of Scotland where Rick’s ancestors hail from. We haven’t been able to find any evidence of the Hoggs or McClungs but we know they were there!  The Robert Burns site was a lovely area including the thatch roofed cottage where he was born. The area around the Robert Burns center included the Brig O'Doon bridge that was part of his famous poem Tam o’ Shanter. The story says that the witches can’t follow him over a body of water so he crossed the Brig O'Doon bridge to escape them.  I prefer to remember the musical with Gene Kelly and Bing Crosby with the magical village of Brig O'Doon that only appears every 100 years.  The monument to Robert Burns included a spectacular garden with the most luscious roses and the bridge was like something out of the movie!!  The drive along the coast was also beautiful. That coupled with a sandwich made with local smoked salmon made it a great day!
Birthplace of Robert Burns-Scotland's national poet



Burns Monument

Tina and Rick at the bridge to Brig O'Doon
The bridge
Where are Rick and Tina-Have they disappeared in Brig O'Doon?????

Day 4-Glasgow
Rick got a cold and decided it was best to stay on ship, get some work done and nurse his cold. This meant that I was tasked with going to Glasgow and taking pictures of the famous Buchanan Street, a pedestrian shopping street that he needed pictures of for his lecture on Glasgow. Hard work but someone has to do it. I think Rick would rather have had a cold than go shopping!!  I went with a friend from the ship and his family and we embarked on a day of seeing the sights of Glasgow.
This started with lunch/tea at the Willow Tea Room that was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh whose architecture looks very similar to that of Frank Lloyd Wright.  The tea was one of those things straight out of Downton Abbey and was just amazing. Sandwiches on one level, scones (softball sized!) with clotted cream and jam on the next level and then the cake of your choice on the top. I chose a Victoria Sponge which was a lovely vanilla cake with a layer of whipped clotted cream and jam. There was a pot of honey almond tea to wash it all down and lots of pictures to document that we actually ate it all!  We then went to take a tour of the city chambers that was just a spectacular building but the tickets were not available. We had to be content with the pictures of the interior which were just amazing
On to Buchanan Street shopping area. Your basic upscale shopping street with lots of street performers, shop keepers giving out samples of tea, going into Lush for lotions and potions and lots of pictures for Rick. I nearly bought a pair of shoes until I saw the price-will be glad to be back on Euros in Ireland with an exchange rate that is better than the sterling pound!!  We saw lots of squares with lots of sculptures (some with traffic cone hats just to be quirky!) and evidence of the preparations for the upcoming Commonwealth games to be held in Glasgow. This is second only to the Olympics but just for the UK and their former colonies.
Back to the ship to sail to Ireland!

Dublin-Welcome to Ireland!!!
Unfortunately the first thing the ship did upon docking in Dublin was to turn off the internet service for the duration of the time in port-L We felt stymied in our attempts to communicate with family and research things to do in Dublin!
However-Rick could smell the Guiness and as part of our City Orientation tour we did indeed go to the Guiness Storehouse where we attended the “how to build a stout” pouring session and we now have official certificates that show that we know how to use a tap to pour a proper pint of stout. We then went took our perfectly poured pints to the Gravity Lounge at the top of the brewery that has 360 degree views of the city of Dublin which was pretty spectacular-and the views were good as well!  On to St. Patrick’s Cathedral that was beautiful and we learned  a lot about Robert Louis Stevenson who was actually a Deacon of the church for many years.
On to Trinity College where we learned about the history of the college and found where to go the next day to see the library and the Book of Kells-not to be missed!
A little shopping on Grafton Street-another pedestrian shopping street but one where they have many ‘buskers”-street performers-as well as live sculptures who are perfectly still until you do something and they respond to you!! What fun!
Then in typical Irish fashion the clouds rolled in and we got drenched because we had left our “brolleys” (umbrellas) and raincoats on the bus while we had a quick look around  on what had been a beautiful day!  Back to the ship to dry off, warm up and have a quiet evening on the ship.

Days 3&4-The Roots of Irish Music
We left early in the morning to drive from Dublin to the Cliffs of Moher (the spectacular cliffs that adorn every tourist publication from Ireland) which, due to the predictably unpredictable weather in Ireland, we were standing just feet from and couldn’t see anything due to the fog that had rolled in with the rain and gale force winds!!  What are you going to do? There was an interpretive center that had lots of information with a gift shop where I bought a pen with a puffin on top of it as that was the closest that I would get to seeing the puffins that hang out at the cliffs! Rick said that instead of seeing the Cliffs of Moher we saw the Cliffs of Less!

We then drove to a small village called Ennis located in County Clare which is apparently one of the prime locations for traditional Irish music-it just seems to be in their souls.  Here we had a lovely lunch with fish chowder with brown bread and the beginning or our 2 days of music. We spent the afternoon with our own private session with 3 musicians. There was one man on a bouzouki (I know-how strange is it that a Greek instrument has found it’s way into the Irish music culture!), one woman with a fiddle and one woman with an concertina who could also play the fiddle. They played for us, educated us about traditional Irish music, the protocol for the “sessions” that are played in the pubs nightly and encouraged everyone on the trip to play with them, sing with the songs and even dance along with the music. It was pretty awesome. Then there was dinner at our hotel that was just delicious and then came the evening of roaming the pubs to hear the type of Irish music that is common to this area. In one pub there was a group of men on the fiddle, uilleann pipes, a cousin of the bag pipes that sound much better although they are a little strange looking. Rick describes them as looking like the radiator of a 57 Chevy! Very strange looking but they have a hauntingly beautiful sound.  Another man on the accordion and one on the bodhran (Irish drum) which Rick plays. On to another pub to hear the women that we had the session with earlier in the day and ending up in the pub of our hotel where the younger musicians played with a concertina, fiddle and guitar. Just as we were heading to bed a woman sat down with the group and they carried in her harp to play-a really harp- and it was great!!  Each pub was accompanied with a pint of beer so we were ready for bed!!! The next day we headed for Galway to see the “buskers” (street performers) which is a music tradition in Ireland. There are some lovely pedestrian streets with shops and cafes (I am seeing a pattern here!) with performers up and down the streets. Just lovely!!
On the way to Galway we passed through an area of Ireland called The Burren, a geological feature where the landscape changes from the green rolling hills to what looks like a moonscape. The pictures can show what this is like. This area was formed from glacial movement and is very striking. 

Back to the ship to sail to Norway!!

Saturday, July 5, 2014



Bilbao, Spain  June   -30

Day 1- We docked and had a leisurely morning looking at the coast of Spain. We are docked in  a small town of Getxo ("Get-cho") which is lovely seaside town. Before Bilbao reinvented itself as a cultural city by building the Guggenheim it was an industrial wasteland of steel production, shipbuilding and blast furnaces. The river was polluted and it was just not a happy place-especially after the economy in Europe was hitting a low and steel production went to other countries.  So they made the decision to tear down all the nasty infrastructure, clean up the river, build the museum, and become the lovely city that it now is-all within the last 25 years!! Which brings us back to Getxo. The “bourgousie”  didn’t want to live among the blast furnaces so they lived here, just about 15-20 miles from Bilbao, so it was and still is to some extent, filled with large homes that the rich folk built. It is now just a very nice “suburb” of Bilbao but it is very welcoming and a place where lots of locals come for the beaches but not foreign tourists which is nice.
The beach in Getxo

The ship with a lovely backdrop-our cabin view!

More pintxos and drinks!

Now for the food and wine of Spain-OMG
The culture is similar to that of England/Scotland/Ireland where they go to bars/pubs everyday to socialize and be with friends. There are streets filled with bars and you go from one to another to another and eat yourself into Spanish oblivion!!  Each bar has little appetizers called pintxos (pin-chos) that are all out on plates and you just take as many as you want, have a little glass of wine or beer and then move on to the next place that has completely different pintxos and drinks! And it is so cheap it is crazy! We actually never went to a sit down restaurant because it is too much fun going from one place to another. We even went to San Sebastian that has several 3-5 star Michelin restaurants!!!  Which are decidedly not cheap!  

So back to the first day-we went to Bilbao and saw the Guggenheim Museum which was absolutely spectacular both in terms of architecture and exhibits (Yoko Ono’s exhibit-not so much spectacular!).  We then wandered the streets of the old quarter having gelato and just marveling at some of the cathedrals and lovely streets and cute shops (that were closed due to the afternoon siesta!). Yep-most of the shops close every afternoon from around 2-5 for siesta and then reopen. Bars are usually open with pintxos but restaurants don’t even open until at least 8:30 for dinner with most people eating from 10ish on.  So do they eat and then go to bed?  We never made it late which is probably why we mostly had pintxos!! Bilbao was a lovely, welcoming city.
The "Puppy" at the Guggenheim

Rick and Tina at the Guggenheim!

Entrance and cafe of the Guggenheim Bilbao

Outside view of the Guggenheim

Old Quarter of Bilbao

Time for pintxos!!!! Lovely outside cafes and bars

I could eat the Iberian Ham every day!

Rick and his class are documenting sustainability efforts of each city we visit and the difference between European cities and US cities is staggering. So much more is done here in terms of environmental and sustainable initiatives! I know it is easier to do that on a much smaller scale than the US but it is pretty great!

Day 2- Hondaribbia and San Sebastian
We went on walking tours of these 2 cities. Hondaribbia is the last town in Spain before crossing over into France. It was a lovely medieval city with beautiful churches and town squares with shops, café’s, bars and restaurants. In Portugal they have Pousadas which are hotels built on the sites and on top of old castles, convents, etc., but in Spain they have Paradors which are old castles that have been taken over by the government of Spain and converted into hotels that are-hello-castles you can stay in!! and they aren’t very expensive.  Note for a next trip!!!
San Sebastian is a very upscale historic yet modern city that is host to what is hailed as the largest film festival in Europe (what is Cannes-chopped liver?) and it is visited by the stars and they wealthy. It was still a lovely city where we had a lovely walking tour and lunch.
View from Hondarribia towards France

Lovely cathedral-playing Pacobel's Cannon

San Sebastian beach

Rick and Tina overlooking San Sebastian

The money shot!!! San Sebastian


Day 3- Sopelana
Rick took the morning to work on his classes while Tina wandered with friends to a small village about 20 minutes away for a religious/cultural festival. We will get the pictures up soon as that will help describe what they was like.  It was one of those magical little experiences where you get to be part of the culture of this village just for a little while.  In the town square they had these huge-20 foot high- characters that men walked under and there was a parade of these characters and towns people dressed in  folks costumes with bands with accordions, drums, horns, etc. all following in the parade. We all became part of the parade that went to the catholic church where they had a service. During the service we went and had pintxos and coffee (to die for-both of them!) and as the parade came back to the square there were vendors set up selling jewelry, scarves, FANS, and just fun things. Guess what I bought!!!  A sweet story-all of the towns people that were in the parade in folk costume or just in the streets were wearing a bandana that was the one designed for this year’s festival. Other years had different bandanas. I approached one of the women in costume, and tried to ask her where I could get a bandana. (We had a smattering of Spanish at our disposal but that didn’t help communicate since we were in BASQUE country and they speak a completely different language!) Anyhoo- this very kind woman just took hers off and gave it to me!!! We took pictures and had a little international bonding moment!!  Once back in the town square folk dancing ensued starting with the little-bitiest of the kids dancing and progressing up to adults doing some pretty spectacular dancing. It was clear that these folks had been practicing for a long time for this! The weather was spectacular-low 70’s and sunny! Then back to the ship.
The parade from the town square

The religious characters + Tina

Folk dancing in the square-w/Basque flag

Later in the afternoon Rick finished his work along with some other faculty and we took off in search of local bars and more pintxos!!! It was early-only 630- 7:00 so no restaurants were open yet1 There were lovely outside seating areas with locals and their children,  dogs just happiness!! We at and drank and went back to the ship about 10-still bright daylight! And as we sat in the faculty lounge looking over the city as soon as it got dark there were fireworks!!! Perfect end to a pretty great day!!

Day 4- LaRioja wine country
We had a lovely tour of the wine country which is more mountainous and had spectacular scenery. Absolutely beautiful countryside. The winery we went to  was chosen from a blind taste test o 92 vineyards to be the wine served at the dinner for the new king of Spain! We bought a bottle (ours is 2009-the award winning one was 2008) and no, we are not bringing it back-except in our bellies!!  We also went to a wine museum and learned a great deal about wine production and had a lovely lunch with beautiful views!
Our primo vineyard-wine served to new King Phillipe

Room at the vineyard designed by Eifelle

Lunch venue

I wish we had found some picturesque views!

Wines sure grow in pretty places

Amazing vineyard building by Santiago Calatrava

Day 5- back on the ship.
Today we had what they call IPAD days (In Port Academic Day) where we sit at the dock, can’t get off and have classes. It is a little frustrating knowing that there are pintxos just waiting out there for us and we can’t get to them!!! But at least we had pretty scenery while we were just hanging out.  At the end of they day the engines started and we sailed for about 15 minutes and then we just lowered the anchors to hang out for another day. (they need so many class days and doing that avoids dock fees).  They also found a way to show the USA/Belgium world cup game last night by turning off the internet to the entire ship for the duration of the game!!  Too bad we didn’t win!!  Unfortunately when you are just hanging out at some undisclosed location the ship tends to roll with the sea and last night there was MUCH rolling. It was a little alarming at times and bottles of shampoo and other things fell over). However, we slept better than we have for most of the trip!!!

Now-off to Scotland!!!  We have 4 days to hit the treadmills and work off some of those pintxos!!!! It was also the last port in which we  raved about the food and the cheap cost of it-all the other ports have much more expensive food although Scotland and Ireland shouldn't be quite as bad and Rick is all geared up for some Guinness!  

Monument to the Portugese explorers

Christ the King monument overlooking Lisbon

Jeronimos Monestery

At the Jose Maria Da Fonseca vineyard


Pousada de Palmela restaurant

Castle Palmela

Vasco de Gama Bridge

Jeronimos Monastery Cathedral

Vasco de Gama's tomb

The Cloisters at Jeronimos Monastery

A tuk-tuk

At Belem Tower

Belem Tower that guards the entrance to Lisbon

The April 25th Bridge, built by the designer of the Golden Gate Bridge

World Expo section of Lisbon

Watching the US/Portugal World Cup game at a Brazilian pub

Returning to the ship after the game...