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To find out more about the voyage itinerary and ports, go to: http://www.semesteratsea.org/voyages/summer-2014/

Saturday, July 5, 2014



Bilbao, Spain  June   -30

Day 1- We docked and had a leisurely morning looking at the coast of Spain. We are docked in  a small town of Getxo ("Get-cho") which is lovely seaside town. Before Bilbao reinvented itself as a cultural city by building the Guggenheim it was an industrial wasteland of steel production, shipbuilding and blast furnaces. The river was polluted and it was just not a happy place-especially after the economy in Europe was hitting a low and steel production went to other countries.  So they made the decision to tear down all the nasty infrastructure, clean up the river, build the museum, and become the lovely city that it now is-all within the last 25 years!! Which brings us back to Getxo. The “bourgousie”  didn’t want to live among the blast furnaces so they lived here, just about 15-20 miles from Bilbao, so it was and still is to some extent, filled with large homes that the rich folk built. It is now just a very nice “suburb” of Bilbao but it is very welcoming and a place where lots of locals come for the beaches but not foreign tourists which is nice.
The beach in Getxo

The ship with a lovely backdrop-our cabin view!

More pintxos and drinks!

Now for the food and wine of Spain-OMG
The culture is similar to that of England/Scotland/Ireland where they go to bars/pubs everyday to socialize and be with friends. There are streets filled with bars and you go from one to another to another and eat yourself into Spanish oblivion!!  Each bar has little appetizers called pintxos (pin-chos) that are all out on plates and you just take as many as you want, have a little glass of wine or beer and then move on to the next place that has completely different pintxos and drinks! And it is so cheap it is crazy! We actually never went to a sit down restaurant because it is too much fun going from one place to another. We even went to San Sebastian that has several 3-5 star Michelin restaurants!!!  Which are decidedly not cheap!  

So back to the first day-we went to Bilbao and saw the Guggenheim Museum which was absolutely spectacular both in terms of architecture and exhibits (Yoko Ono’s exhibit-not so much spectacular!).  We then wandered the streets of the old quarter having gelato and just marveling at some of the cathedrals and lovely streets and cute shops (that were closed due to the afternoon siesta!). Yep-most of the shops close every afternoon from around 2-5 for siesta and then reopen. Bars are usually open with pintxos but restaurants don’t even open until at least 8:30 for dinner with most people eating from 10ish on.  So do they eat and then go to bed?  We never made it late which is probably why we mostly had pintxos!! Bilbao was a lovely, welcoming city.
The "Puppy" at the Guggenheim

Rick and Tina at the Guggenheim!

Entrance and cafe of the Guggenheim Bilbao

Outside view of the Guggenheim

Old Quarter of Bilbao

Time for pintxos!!!! Lovely outside cafes and bars

I could eat the Iberian Ham every day!

Rick and his class are documenting sustainability efforts of each city we visit and the difference between European cities and US cities is staggering. So much more is done here in terms of environmental and sustainable initiatives! I know it is easier to do that on a much smaller scale than the US but it is pretty great!

Day 2- Hondaribbia and San Sebastian
We went on walking tours of these 2 cities. Hondaribbia is the last town in Spain before crossing over into France. It was a lovely medieval city with beautiful churches and town squares with shops, café’s, bars and restaurants. In Portugal they have Pousadas which are hotels built on the sites and on top of old castles, convents, etc., but in Spain they have Paradors which are old castles that have been taken over by the government of Spain and converted into hotels that are-hello-castles you can stay in!! and they aren’t very expensive.  Note for a next trip!!!
San Sebastian is a very upscale historic yet modern city that is host to what is hailed as the largest film festival in Europe (what is Cannes-chopped liver?) and it is visited by the stars and they wealthy. It was still a lovely city where we had a lovely walking tour and lunch.
View from Hondarribia towards France

Lovely cathedral-playing Pacobel's Cannon

San Sebastian beach

Rick and Tina overlooking San Sebastian

The money shot!!! San Sebastian


Day 3- Sopelana
Rick took the morning to work on his classes while Tina wandered with friends to a small village about 20 minutes away for a religious/cultural festival. We will get the pictures up soon as that will help describe what they was like.  It was one of those magical little experiences where you get to be part of the culture of this village just for a little while.  In the town square they had these huge-20 foot high- characters that men walked under and there was a parade of these characters and towns people dressed in  folks costumes with bands with accordions, drums, horns, etc. all following in the parade. We all became part of the parade that went to the catholic church where they had a service. During the service we went and had pintxos and coffee (to die for-both of them!) and as the parade came back to the square there were vendors set up selling jewelry, scarves, FANS, and just fun things. Guess what I bought!!!  A sweet story-all of the towns people that were in the parade in folk costume or just in the streets were wearing a bandana that was the one designed for this year’s festival. Other years had different bandanas. I approached one of the women in costume, and tried to ask her where I could get a bandana. (We had a smattering of Spanish at our disposal but that didn’t help communicate since we were in BASQUE country and they speak a completely different language!) Anyhoo- this very kind woman just took hers off and gave it to me!!! We took pictures and had a little international bonding moment!!  Once back in the town square folk dancing ensued starting with the little-bitiest of the kids dancing and progressing up to adults doing some pretty spectacular dancing. It was clear that these folks had been practicing for a long time for this! The weather was spectacular-low 70’s and sunny! Then back to the ship.
The parade from the town square

The religious characters + Tina

Folk dancing in the square-w/Basque flag

Later in the afternoon Rick finished his work along with some other faculty and we took off in search of local bars and more pintxos!!! It was early-only 630- 7:00 so no restaurants were open yet1 There were lovely outside seating areas with locals and their children,  dogs just happiness!! We at and drank and went back to the ship about 10-still bright daylight! And as we sat in the faculty lounge looking over the city as soon as it got dark there were fireworks!!! Perfect end to a pretty great day!!

Day 4- LaRioja wine country
We had a lovely tour of the wine country which is more mountainous and had spectacular scenery. Absolutely beautiful countryside. The winery we went to  was chosen from a blind taste test o 92 vineyards to be the wine served at the dinner for the new king of Spain! We bought a bottle (ours is 2009-the award winning one was 2008) and no, we are not bringing it back-except in our bellies!!  We also went to a wine museum and learned a great deal about wine production and had a lovely lunch with beautiful views!
Our primo vineyard-wine served to new King Phillipe

Room at the vineyard designed by Eifelle

Lunch venue

I wish we had found some picturesque views!

Wines sure grow in pretty places

Amazing vineyard building by Santiago Calatrava

Day 5- back on the ship.
Today we had what they call IPAD days (In Port Academic Day) where we sit at the dock, can’t get off and have classes. It is a little frustrating knowing that there are pintxos just waiting out there for us and we can’t get to them!!! But at least we had pretty scenery while we were just hanging out.  At the end of they day the engines started and we sailed for about 15 minutes and then we just lowered the anchors to hang out for another day. (they need so many class days and doing that avoids dock fees).  They also found a way to show the USA/Belgium world cup game last night by turning off the internet to the entire ship for the duration of the game!!  Too bad we didn’t win!!  Unfortunately when you are just hanging out at some undisclosed location the ship tends to roll with the sea and last night there was MUCH rolling. It was a little alarming at times and bottles of shampoo and other things fell over). However, we slept better than we have for most of the trip!!!

Now-off to Scotland!!!  We have 4 days to hit the treadmills and work off some of those pintxos!!!! It was also the last port in which we  raved about the food and the cheap cost of it-all the other ports have much more expensive food although Scotland and Ireland shouldn't be quite as bad and Rick is all geared up for some Guinness!  

Monument to the Portugese explorers

Christ the King monument overlooking Lisbon

Jeronimos Monestery

At the Jose Maria Da Fonseca vineyard


Pousada de Palmela restaurant

Castle Palmela

Vasco de Gama Bridge

Jeronimos Monastery Cathedral

Vasco de Gama's tomb

The Cloisters at Jeronimos Monastery

A tuk-tuk

At Belem Tower

Belem Tower that guards the entrance to Lisbon

The April 25th Bridge, built by the designer of the Golden Gate Bridge

World Expo section of Lisbon

Watching the US/Portugal World Cup game at a Brazilian pub

Returning to the ship after the game...

Thursday, June 26, 2014


Lisbon, Portugal

So- our trip to Lisbon was lovely and we can now take a test on the history of the city and pretty much the whole country! We had some very thorough tour guides and everyone else in the country seemed to have all the details at their fingertips!
One of the art historians on board had given a bit of a pre-port lecture about Lisbon, it’s history and architecture, the food, music and great things to do to get to know the city. Very helpful-especially the parts about the amazing pastries!

Day 1(Saturday)- We boarded a bus and drove through the city getting a bit of an overview of the different parts of the city.  It was nice to see the different areas and things that the pre-port lecturer talked about. We crossed the April 25th bridge (build by the same company that built the Golden Gate Bridge-very similar looking!) and saw the huge statue of Christ the King which was fashioned after the one in South America. This was done during WWII as a way to pay homage to the neutrality of Portugal during the war (although they did let the allies use the ports of Lisbon for refueling, etc.).  We went to one of the wine regions outside of Lisbon and visited the vineyard of Jose Maria Da Fonseca where we got a nice tour of the winery and the beautiful gardens full of bougainvillea and Jacaranda trees with their beautiful purple flowers.
We tasted some nice red (tinto) wine and some Moscatel wine that was an intense flavor that we decided would be great as a wine spritzer! After purchasing a lovely bottle of red wine we drove to a beautiful pousada for lunch and beautiful views. A pousada is a more modern building that in order to be an official Pousada it must be build over/on top of, etc. a historical building of some sort. We went to the Pousada de Palmela which was built over apart of the ancient cloisters of the convent of Castle Palmela built in the 8th century.
The lunch was our introduction to Portugese food and was fabulous with a carrot soup, a beautiful entrée with fresh sautéed vegetables covered with sea bream filets, covered with roasted potatoes with amazing seasonings. Along with some lovely white wine and fresh rustic bread. Dessert was a concoction of eggs, cream, almonds and cinnamon. Followed of course by the little cups of espresso that are served everywhere. Oh my!! It is a good thing that getting to the Pousada involved walking a long way and was followed by a walk about the castle. We worked off one small fraction of what we ate and drank!!
We drove back to Lisbon across the Vasco de Gama bridge which is an amazing suspension bridge that is apparently the longest bridge in Europe!! We had a little bit of walk about time in central Lisbon and then continued with a drive around some of the newer parts of the city that were build in 2007 as part of the World Expo-pretty impressive buildings! Lots of tributes to Vasco de Gama!!!
Spent a quiet evening on the ship after a very full day out and about!

Day 2 (Sunday)-
We got a “hop-on, hop-off” bus ticket with one of the sightseeing companies (is there a Grayline tour in every country??) so that we could see the major sights that we wanted to see in the easiest way. We started at the Jeronimos Monastery which was built in 1493 (and is the burial place of Vasco de Gama). The line to get into the cloisters was around the block so we decided to learn from our son Richard (who does this regularly) and attended the holy mass that was being conducted. No only did we get to see the beautiful church but we got to hear the pipe organ and the choir which was beautiful. I’m sure the mass was lovely but with our limited Portugese vocabulary (thank you-male and female versions, how much is that, and do you speak English) we didn’t understand much!!
Coming out of the church it was raining and we were debating whether we wanted to see the cloisters (although the opportunity to see it and learn about the “Manueline” style of building was too tempting) so we decided to venture to the bakery to try the goodies at the famous Pasteis de Belem. We had a bite of lunch and some pastries while waiting out the rain. About the pastries (I’m just saying-it wasn’t our fault that we had to eat so many!), we had been told that it was impossible to just eat one so we ordered a little lunch and then asked if we could have 2 for lunch and have two packaged to take with us. No problem! said the waiter. I thought, well that was easy! So lunch comes along with a plate of 4 pastries and a bag with 2 to take with us-oh my. They were kind of little so we ate one each, split one and then put one in the bag with the others to take with us. We thought it would be nice to have them on the ship with a cup of tea the next day. Well, sometime that afternoon we got hungry and split one more which left the other 2-no problem-save them for the cup of tea-you get it-great plan.  On the walk back to the ship we were about 2 blocks away when I remembered you can only bring food on the ship that is hermetically sealed-not food from a restaurant or a BAKERY! So now-what would you do? Throw them away or eat them in the 2 blocks left to walk. As you can guess, we ate them and waddled on to the ship!!

But I digress- after waiting out the rain in the bakery we decided to go back to the monastery and see the cloisters. Rick had on a big brimmed hat and I had thought to put one small umbrella in my purse. By this time it was POURING down rain but the good news was that the rain had greatly decreased the line for the monastery! So we stood and got mildly soaked in line for the cloisters (during which time the sun came out!) and we can now answer Jeopardy questions about the Manueline style of architecture that is so prevalent in Lisbon. That is the purpose for all this travel isn’t it?

Back to the hop on-hop off bus and we toured most of the historical sites we wanted to and then had the opportunity to ride and really see the more modern parts of Lisbon from the World Expo. Picture taking was non-stop and we got some great pictures of Lisbon and some pictures of sustainability efforts around Lisbon for Rick’s class.
One set of pictures we took had to do with the amazing sidewalks in Lisbon. Richard had taken a picture of one of them when he was there several years ago and we kept an eye out for interesting designs. Unfortunately we didn’t get as many as we would have liked due to being in moving vehicles so much and when we were on foot (lots!) we didn’t see the ones we saw from the buses!! But we did get some great ones and hope to put them into a photo collage of some sort.

Day 3 (Monday)-
We ventured to the highest “mountain” in the Lisbon area to a town called Sintra where the summer palace of the royal families of Portugal is located. After having a rainy start (now carrying 2 umbrellas and rain jackets!) the day cleared up just in time to make the climb up the hills to the palace which was stunning inside and out with some of the most amazing views of the Portugese countryside all the way to Lisbon and the Atlantic Ocean. They were definitely not slumming it! We also learned even more about the history of Portugal (we can take a serious test by this time-and pass with flying colors!).  We then had time to stroll the streets of Sintra with their shops filled with everything from beautiful tiles to everything made from cork! This is the area from which most of the cork in the world comes from and they have certainly capitalized on it! Nothing like having NO ROOM in our suitcases to bring much back to keep the purchases to a minimum.  I did buy a cork pen for my pen collection as well as a cork fan!! There were still some purses I could have easily gotten!  

Day 4 (Tuesday)-
Cooking day!!! We went to an interesting part of Lisbon that had been warehouses for the fishermen that has now been made into little shops and restaurants. There we had a cooking class making some traditional Portugese food. For a starter we carmelized apples and rosemary and then made little meatballs out of a traditional Portugese smoked sausage which we got all crispy and served on top of the carmelized apples. The story says that the sausages saved the lives of Jews as the monarchy wanted to get rid of any non-Christians and the only way to tell if someone was a Christian was to see if they had smoked sausages in their smoke houses. Since non-Christians didn’t eat pork it was assumed that those homes who had no smoked sausages were non Christian homes. The Jews learned to make smoked chicken sausages and when the government checked the smoke houses they   
We then made a traditional fish stew with olive oil and layers of onions, garlic, potatoes, red and green bell peppers, tomatoes, monk fish and cod and prawns. Mighty tasty!!! We finished everything off with a small tart made of chickpeas and almonds, chocolate mousse and small glass of port!

Say goodbye to Lisbon-on to Bilbao, Spain!! We will be there on Friday morning and the adventures will continue!!




Saturday, June 21, 2014

Boarding the MV Explorer

Our cozy cabin--4078.  Same as four years ago.



Our first lifeboat drill!
Embarkation and our first days at sea!
The Grand Harbor Hotel in the background

Oldest tavern in Southampton

Great Barbeque and a Guinness!

Another famous tavern in Southampton

The old city walls.  Close to where the Mayflower docked